It’s been some time since I joined my Wine Pairing Weekend friends so we’re venturing away from Italy and taking a short jaunt over to the Navarra in Spain. If you’re not familiar with the Navarra it is located in northern Spain at the base of the Pyrenees Mountains. It’s near Pamplona and part of the Camino de Santiago (the pilgrimage route of St. James), which was used amongst monks traveling to France and is partially why French grapes are part of vineyard life in the Navarra.
Today I’m sharing the wines of Bodega Inurrieta. They are situated in 1 of the 5 sub zones known as the Ribera Alta district of Navarra. This is considered the heart of the Navarra and home to the Navarra D.O. headquarters. This D.O. is one of the oldest in the country created in 1933 and consists of about 90 wineries and 2,500 growers. The red grapes dominate the landscapes by about 90% over whites. The Ribera Alta is a warmer section of the Navarra with the Rio Elga flowing through the land.
The winery is named after the land where the ancestors grew vines over 100 years ago. The vines of today were planted back in 1999 with the first bottle release in 2003. As the President Juan Maria Antonana states “Inurrieta is a young winery but our family has a long tradition in the world of wine.” The wineries altitude ranges from 300-480 and consists of 3 different soil types so they are able to produce 6 different grape varietals including sauvignon blanc, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, graciano and garnacha.
2017 Inurrieta Orchidea Sauvignon Blanc
Brilliant, crystal pale yellow in color with a tinge of green. On the nose the aromatics are jumping out of the glass with waves of tropical fruits (pineapples and grapefruits). A light to medium bodied wine rich in tropical fruit with vegetal undertones. Well balanced.
Pairing: I paired this wine with a pintxo appetizer topped with salted ham, roasted peppers and goat cheese drizzled with some delicious extra virgin olive oil I received from Azienda Agricola Pernigo. I was a big fan of this pairing as the acidity and tropical notes of the wine integrated well with the savory ham along with the peppers and goat cheese.
This wine is a blend of 60% merlot and 40% cabernet sauvignon. Crianza in the Navarra has a requirement of 24 months aging with a minimum of 9 months in barrel. Bodega Inurrieta uses both French and American oak. This wine is deep, dark ruby in color. Sweet smelling on the nose and rich in blackberries and raspberries as well as on the palatte. A full bodied, meaty wine with vanilla notes from the barrel aging.
Pairing: I paired with this stuffed peppers filled with turkey, black beans, diced red peppers and corn.
Navarra is one of Spain’s most ancient wine regions. Historical evidence dates grape growing back to 2 BC when ancient Romans built wineries there. The wines gained prominence in the Middle Ages. By the 18th century viticulture was the main agriculture in the region, and when the phylloxera outbreak hit France, Navarra benefited from increased wine sales. A wine region as old and prominent as Navarra, why don’t more wine consumers know and drink Navarra wines?
2015 Bodegas Principe de Viana Edicion Rosa ($21): Crafted of 100% Garnacha; medium salmon with orange and brown hues; pronounced aromas of white stone fruit, orange zest and blossom, jasmine, dried apricots, honey, and fresh strawberries; fresh and crisp on the palate, lively and refreshing with high acidity that coats the palate and creates a long, mouthwatering tart finish.
2015 Bodegas Principe de Viana Roble Navarra Spain ($11): Crafted of 100% Garnacha; medium+ ruby; pronounced aromas of violets, baked cherries, black raspberries, and currants, baking spices, fresh tobacco, dried herbs, and vanilla; silky youthful medium+ tannins balanced with medium+ acidity, full body, rustic yet pleasing; long spicy finish.
2012 Bodegas Ochoa Crianza Navarra Spain ($23): Crafted of 100% Tempranillo; deep ruby; pronounced aromas of dried rose and herbs; stewed plums, blackberries, cherries, and currants, damp underbrush, leather, tobacco, touch of funk; rich and round on the palate, rustic yet delicious; high grippy tannins, high acidity, full body, long rustic earth finish, a great wine to enjoy with a steak.
2008 Bodegas Ochoa Reserva Navarra Spain ($33): Crafted of 55% Tempranillo, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Merlot; deep garnet with scarlet hues; pronounced aromas of dried roses and herbs; cooked dark cherries, blackberries, plums, and currants, sweet baking spice, smoke, damp leather, and roasted espresso beans; nice tension between rustic and elegance, fruit and earth; full body, high tannins and acidity, long juicy finish.
2015 Bodegas Vega Del Castillo Garnacha Cepas Viejas Navarra Spain ($8): Crafted of 100% Garnacha; medium+ ruby; medium+ aromas of fresh roses, bright cherries, blackberries, black raspberries, sweet baking spices, ash, leather, and milk chocolate; lively on the palate, fresh and bright, medium youthful tannins and medium acidity, smooth on palate, medium+ body, long finish.
2013 Bodegas Vega Del Castillo Capa Roja Roble Navarra Spain ($10): Crafted of 100% Tempranillo; deep ruby; medium aromas baked cherries, raspberries, blackberries, black currant leaves, forest floor, sweet baking spice, chocolate, leather, and vanilla; full body, youthful grippy high tannins that feel a touch hot on the palate, high acidity, full body, long spice driven finish; another wine ideal with a hearty meal such as pasta or steak.
I’ll get this out first and be done with it — I’m absolutely not into bullfighting or rhino hunting. However, like millions of others, I fell in love with the works of Ernest Hemingway decades ago and haven’t properly separated myself from the fantasy of his creation since. In his iconic work, The Sun Also Rises, friends spend time in Pamplona, a city filled with Northern Spanish culture.
NAVARRA FOOD AND WINE
Navarra is located in Northern Spain, bordering Basque Country and Rioja. In addition to geographical borders, the region shares a 300-year historical connection with France, stitched together by years of faithful Roman Catholic pilgrims as they journey the Camino de Santiago.
This is one of Spain’s oldest Denominacion de Origen (DO), established in 1939 and encompassing five distinct areas. Tierra Estella, Valdiz Arbe, Baja Montana, Ribera Alta and Ribera Baja. Because the region enjoys swaths of Atlantic, Continental and Mediterranean climates – there is variety in the wines.
Soils are distinct as well with clay, limestone and pebble vineyards found throughout the DO. Navarra is a huge region, diverse and all aspects — there’s a Navarra wine for every chapter in The Sun Also Rises – I dare you to test it!
Wines from the area come from 90% red-skinned grapes to produce both red and rosé wines, which are made from the saignée method. White wines are also made here, as are a smidge of dessert wines.
Spanish wines are upfront and center on every winelover’s radar (and palate). The wines of Navarra are no exception. Budget friendly, with a range of styles and varieties that complement even the most discerning aficionado, wines from this historic region continually delight.
It’s no wonder then, that the #winePW crew, a (perpetually) thirsty and hungry group of wine and food writers, chose this region on which to focus during our lively Twitter banter held the second Saturday of each month. All of us received, as samples, two or three bottles of wine from Navarra to pair with a recipe (or recipes) of our choice. See below for our collective recipes and wine pairings.
Navarra Wine and Tapas
I was thrilled to receive two budget-friendly wines that are of Navarra’s lesser grown varieties: Inurrieta Orchidea 2017 ($7), of 100% Sauvignon Blanc, and Otazu Premium Cuvee 2013 ($13), a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (35%) and Tempranillo (20%). Ahhh, it was time to consider my recipe for pairing…
Having just returned from Spain, I immersed myself in more than my fair share of savory, mouthwatering tapas. From cod stuffed croquettas to jamon (in every form!) to grilled calamari with herbs to chicken with potatoes, olives, and sherry, and everything in between, these small plates satisfied my hunger pangs and quest for traditional Spanish culture. It’s no wonder that I chose to pair the intriguing wines I received from Navarra with tapas.
With so many choices, I decided to find a recipe that every self-respecting tapas bar has on its varied menu: Spanish Omelette (Tortillas). Because it seemed like a snap to make and offered a variety of modifications (see recipe below for suggestions), I knew that my Navarra wines, both white and red, would be luscious pairings… and I was correct.
Flan is an egg custard that originates from Spain. It has a characteristic deep golden, caramel top and a caramel sauce that cascades down the sides of the pale and creamy custard. Now, there are many different types of egg custard, all around the world. But, it could be said that Spanish flan is where they all started.
THE HISTORY OF FLAN
Flan can be dated all the way back to Ancient Rome. The Romans were known for their creation of egg dishes, possibly because they were the first people to domesticate chickens for their eggs. In Rome, you would be able to find both sweet and savory (cheese, spinach, seafood) flans being enjoyed. As the recipe for flan spread across Europe, it took on new characteristics in each country. England created flan that was baked in a pastry shell or crust. In France, often chocolate was added to flan to become the pots de creme that we know today.
Caramelized sugar became a signature ingredient in Spanish flan. When the Moors occupied Spain, they brought the use of citrus and almonds to flan, and those flavorings are still common for Spanish flan today.
HOW TO MAKE SPANISH FLAN
The hardest part about making Spanish flan is getting the caramel topping just right. The impressive, golden crown that sits atop every well-made Spanish flan starts as caramelized sugar in the bottom of the flan dish. When you invert the dish after baking, the caramelized sugars release from the dish and give you the beautiful, characteristic top. Any time you work with sugar, you have to take some special care and attention. And, this case is no exception. The tricky part here is that as you heat your sugar, it gets very finicky about temperature changes. As you pour the golden caramelized sugar syrup from the hot pan into the cool molds, it hardens rapidly. So, we recommend that you have your molds set and ready. When your sugar starts to turn a golden brown, it will darken quickly, and you need to act fast to get your liquid caramel to coat the bottom of your cups before it turns into hard caramel candy.
Have you traveled to Spain? If so, you’ve likely visited the bustling metropolis of Madrid or the sophisticated streets of Barcelona; perhaps you’ve wandered through the towns of Andalucía, enchanted bythe plaintive notes of Flamenco guitar floating on the breeze. But there’s another place, nestled in the northeast corner, where nature preserves sit next to world-class vineyards. It’s called Navarra, and it has a real story to tell.
The Wine Pairing Weekend group heads to the region this Saturday, April 14th, to discuss the culture, wines, and food traditions of Navarra. Our host is Gwendolyn from Wine Predator, and you can read her invitation post here.
As we do on the second Saturday of each month, we’ll sync up on Twitter at 11 am ET, following the hashtag #winepw. What follows is equal parts travelogue, history lesson, and gastronomic wanderlust. We’d love for you to join us! Feel free to chime in and add your comments or, if you prefer to just watch and learn, that’s cool, too. Just be sure to add #winepw to your tweets so we can welcome you.
A Brief History of Navarra
Navarra was once an independent kingdom that stretched from Bordeaux to Barcelona. In fact, a series of French monarchs ruled the realm in the middle ages, permanently linking the cultures together. Wine has been made in Navarra since Roman times when just enough was made to satisfy the needs of the occupying armies. Consumer demand for wine came later, rising with the flood of pilgrims traveling to Santiago de Compostela via the Route of Saint James.
In the 1800s, when phylloxera decimated the vineyards of nearby southern France, vintners in Navarra stepped in to assist: much of their production was sold to French growers, helping keep their trade afloat. That is, until phylloxera made its way into Spain, and laid waste to the vineyards there.
Spain most notably known for the wines from Rioja and Ribera Del Duero, has a region that is often shadowed by its western neighbors. The wines of Navarra are well made and are Spain’s hidden gems.
Navarra is located in Northern Spain between the Pyrenees Mountain and the Ebro River. It is a region with a rich history of culture, art, wine and cuisine. The capital of the region is Pamplona, most notably known for attracting thrill seekers to run with the bulls. Navarra is also a region beautifully articulated by Hemingway in The Sun Also Rises. A region known for growing high quality produce and also a bustling culinary scene with it Michelin Star restaurants.
Most notable and possibly the best kept secret is the wonderful wines that come from this region. Navarra offers whites, rosés and red wines, in a diverse range of styles due to its varied and unique terroirs. There are three distinct climates, Atlantic, Continental and Meditterean in one very exciting wine region. Winemakers have a focus on innovation and experimentation combined with deep respect for the land and it’s traditions. The wines run a gamut of styles from crisp mineral driven whites, to pink fruit forward rosados, to concentrated spicy reds, and luscious sweet dessert wines.
The history of winemaking in Navarra dates back to the 1st century A.D. and then gained popularity and respect in the Middle Ages. It was not until more recently, in 1933 that the region obtained its D.O. status. For many years Garnacha was the most widely planted grape mixed with fruits, vegetables and high quality produce that Navarra is most known for. Garnacha was used to produce rosé wines. The Spanish loved the color and fruit forwardness of rosés. It was not until the 1960’s that pioneering efforts by local winemakers and government funded research, lead to plantings of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. Today Tempranillo is the most widely planted grape varietal of the region. Though in recent years, winemakers have come back full circle and regard Garnacha as a national treasure. Many winemakers are returning to tradition and are putting greats efforts to create world-class wines from Garnacha with bright flavors, concentration and complexity.
This month our wine pairing weekend group has been invited to visit Navarra, Spain by Gwendolyn of Wine Predator.
To help us on this journey we were each provided with samples of Navarra wine, graciously donated by Susannah & April of Navarra Wine. While I appreciate receiving samples, you can rest assured that all opinions written in this blog are exclusively my own and I have received no monetary compensation for this post.
I was not familiar with Navarra wines at all. I’m not really familiar with Spanish wines, other than an occasional Rioja. I learned quite a bit from Gwen’s Invitation Post. I also did some exploring on my own after receiving the wines.
This Chardonnay pours a beautiful golden hue and has herbaceous notes mildly tamed by oak. I used it in my dish and enjoyed a glass as I cooked. It was wonderful by itself. When paired with my meal, it took on a sweetness that hadn’t been noticeable on it’s own. I think it was a good pairing but it is not the one I chose to showcase for today’s event.
For today’s event I wanted to pair a Spanish Wine with Spanish Food. I specifically was looking for a dish that would pair well with the bottle of Vendimmio Selecionada (Selected Harvest) from Garcia Burgos. I was unable to determine which grapes were used in this bottling. This bottle was not sent as a sample. I had purchased this bottle prior to finding out that we would be receiving samples for this event.
I went searching for Spanish foods and came across a blog called Spain Recipes. This blog had a section all about the food and wine found in Navarra as well as the rest of the Country.
I drooled over the pages and was excited when I found this recipe for Croquetas de Jamon (Ham Croquettes). I had the last of the Easter ham in the refrigerator and this was the perfect way to use it.
A friend recently asked my advice in planning a Friendsgiving dinner – she lives far from her hometown and has decided to invite other friends to share the day with her. She’s quite accomplished in the kitchen and has decided to prepare all the courses herself, with the exception of dessert. Good for her!
Years ago, I used to host Thanksgiving at my home, inviting a rag-tag group of friends, family members, neighbors, and friends-of-friends unable to go home for the holiday. The mix changed each year, depending on who was where, and it led to some interesting interactions. But that’s a whole other post . . . .
Naturally I was flattered when she sought my help and, to be honest, I looked forward to the thought exercise. My husband and I are celebrating the
holiday quietly this year and I’m sort of missing the pre-Thanksgiving festivities. Best of all, I can indulge in some creative culinary thinking without having to wash a single pot or pan.
The Wines
I recently received a selection of sample bottles from the Navarra Denominación de Origen (DO) of Spain, and I thought they would lend themselves perfectly to this Friendsgiving dinner. Best known for its fresh and fruity Rosado wines, Navarra is also a center of fine-wine production, making use of both indigenous and international varieties. Tempranillo, Graciano, and Muscat mingle with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in an intriguing array of wines that pair easily with holiday feasts. I took each of the six wines I received and matched it with a particular course or dish.
Navarra Wine Lovers Tasting at Pierre Loti Chelsea, May 20 2018
Thank you to the NYC wine lovers at Pierre Loti for spending a Sunday afternoon with us! Guests learned about the region, the wineries and discovered their style of wine, sipping their way through Navarra and tasting the authentic Spanish cheeses and meats by Despaña.
Wines presented were from these family-run wineries:
Castillo de Monjardin: Chardonnay El Cerezo & Garnacha La Cantera
Bodega Inurrieta: Orchidea, Laderas de Inurrieta, Cuatrocientos, Altos de Inurrieta
I’m a big fan of Spanish wines. I think they tend to be great food wines, and I think they’re also extremely underrated. All together that means that Spain is also a great place to look for wine values.
Looking back through the posts I’ve shared here, I’m actually surprised to realize I haven’t posted much from Spain (other than the Ameztoi Txakolina Rosé I described here.) I have a few Spanish wines in the hopper for the coming months and I’ve certainly had quite a few amongst my 8 & 20’s (I will drop some links at the end), but somehow, they’ve been missing from this lineup. We’re going to correct that right now.
Exploring Navarra
Today we’re exploring Navarra in the northern part of the country. The region runs from the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains and over to the Ebro river, just across from Rioja.
Navarra has largely been overshadowed by its neighbor, but it is definitely worth getting to know. The region has been recognized in the past for its rosés–or rosados in Spanish–which are still really tasty! However, the region began to up plantings of Tempranillo and international varieties like Cab and Merlot in the 1980’s. You’ll also find some excellent Grenache. It was the driver behind all that great rosado in the past, but now the some of those vines (or those that remain) are all grown up and producing some excellent old vine Garnacha.
Winemaking here goes way back as well. Catholics would pass through the area while making the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, in Galicia, where it’s said that the remains of St. James the Apostle are buried. These travellers wanted wine. Demand was so high that in the 14th century, restrictions had to be placed on the number of vineyards popping up to ensure that there was enough farmland to grow grains for food.
Summer season’s most intriguing wines come from one of Spain’s undiscovered areas: Navarra. Located in the north of Spain just outside of Madrid, its provincial capital is Pamplona, made famous by the Ernest Hemingway novel “The Sun Also Rises” and the festival at the town of Los Sanfermines and the celebrated annual running of the bulls.
The sheer variety and complexity of the wines, not to mention the exceptional value, makes these wines perfect for summer and the wide variety of dishes to be served at garden parties, al fresco cafes, and barbecues. The wines are exceptional and selling at bargain prices. Get in on the fun or lose out once they catch on and prices start to skyrocket as in all things worthy!
Chicago’s Bernie’s Lunch and Supper rooftop deck in the restaurant mecca of River North was the setting for a lavish Grand Tasting of wines from a Baker’s Dozen of wineries from D.O. Navarra, Spain. The wines ran the gamut from crisp, fruity Chardonnays to robust Crianza’s.
Navarra is known as “the garden of Spain.” Made famous by its quality products and sheep’s milk cheeses, it is also praised for its superb vineyards, cultivated for more than 300 years since the arrival of monks during the Crusades of the Middle Ages. Multiple microclimates and a confluence of unique terroir produced vineyards that create an abundance of ‘international’ grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay as well as hearty and flavorful local varieties such as Tempranillo and Garnacha (Grenache).
Winemakers from Navarra were at the rooftop lounge at Bernie’s Lunch and Supper in River North to present their wines. Among them were such historic vineyards as Castilla de Monjardin. Tucked away in the foothills of the Pyrenees along France’s border, the winery was founded in 1988 by the Del Villar-Olano family. Winemaker Victor del Villar Olano was on hand to personally pour his selection of wines, ranging from his unoaked 2017 El Cerezo Chardonnay ($12.99) to 2014 Reserva Cabernet ($14.99) . The wines displayed exceptional character, particularly the 2017 La Cantera Garnacha Old Vines. This jammy, red wine displayed all of the bright fruit and balanced structure that belies its youth. With flavors of ripe red cherries and raspberries backed by a hint of spiciness, the wines are a perfect match for grilled meats and barbecue. I defy you to find another red wine of such depth and complexity at this price.
The Spanish wine region of Navarra is hosting a “Land of Diversity & Wine Styles” Grand Tasting in Chicago on May 8th at Bernie’s Lunch & Supper. In addition to a seminar on the diverse terroir and three climates found in Navarra winemakers from 13 wineries will be pouring at a walk-around tasting. Interestingly, Navarra USA is promoting the wines in part by teaming up with “The Pintxo Trail, Pamplona,” a culinary guidebook to the bitesize, not-exactly-tapas culinary jewels found in the region. Traditionally, a toothpick “pinches” the food, hence the name “pintxos,” and guests are charged based on the number of toothpicks left on the plate.
Our recipe for Salmon Pesto Pasta features pasta topped with pesto and salmon for a delicious way to enjoy some healthy seafood. You can make it with traditional pesto or our kale pesto recipe. We paired the dish with a white wine from Navarra, Spain. Disclosure: The wine was sent as a complimentary sample.
Salmon gets combined with pesto and pasta a lot in our home.
I often make a big batch of kale pesto on Sunday. Some of that pesto gets tossed with pasta, with some extra saved for a quick meal during the week. I also like that kale pesto on seafood, so will often serve fish alongside my pasta, while offering chicken or pork to Jodi, who is not a fish fan.
Salmon and pesto combine so well I realized I needed to serve our salmon pesto pasta recipe straight up here on Cooking Chat. It’s a regular on our menu, and if you like salmon and pesto, this salmon pesto pasta might quickly become a favorite of yours, too.
MAKING SALMON PESTO PASTA
Salmon pesto pasta is a very easy meal to put together. You start by making the pesto.
If it’s April it must be Navarra. Yes, our Wine Pairing Weekend group of bloggers is traveling to Navarra this month to explore the region, its wine and, of course, the food. The inspiration for this trip came from Gwendolyn Alley who blogs with great enthusiasm (and skill) at Wine Predator. Gwendolyn also managed to wrangle tasting samples for us courtesy of the folks at Navarra Wine US. Thank you to both!
Where is Navarra?
Navarra is both an autonomous community and a wine region that lies north of La Rioja. The capital is Pamplona, which is famous for its running of the bulls in celebration of Saint Fermin. The wine region lies roughly within the autonomous community that is bound by France to the north, Basque Country to the west and Aragon to the east and south.
Influences on the Region
As with every other region around the Mediterranean they conquered, the Romans were responsible for introducing grapevines to the region in the 1st century A.D. The Moors had seized power of the region by 711 and according to one account I read the Spanish Reconquest began in nearby Asturias only 11 years later.
Navarra is an up and coming wine region in Northern Spain located in the western part of the Pyrenees Mountains that form a natural boundary between France and Spain with the Basque mountains further to the West. Navarra butts up against France to the north and to the south is Rioja, famous for Tempranillo.
To the far west is coastal Galicia, famous for Albarino and the terminus for the Camino de Santiago, or “The Way” which winds through northern Spain as well as France and Portugal.
Pilgrims on the Camino, past, and present enjoy the regional wine and cuisine along “The Way” and many returns with an increased appreciation and interest in these wines.
While wine from Rioja has generally been available and known in the United States, recently there’s been an explosion of imports of Albarino from Galicia, and now it is Navarra’s turn to be discovered by those on and off the Camino.
This month’s Wine Pairing Weekend crew took on the task of sampling one or more bottles of wine from Navarra and paired them with either regional cuisine or another menu inspired by the wines. The 15 participants this month sampled reds, whites, and rose wines ranging from the traditional reds of the region like Tempranillo and whites like Viura to mainstays of the global wine market like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
This month, the Wine Pairing Weekend crew become Pilgrims on a sacred journey this April to Navarra, Spain, home to the Camino de Santiago as well as a cuisine that pairs heavenly with the region’s wines! Here’s the invitation to participate.
The famous “Way” travels from many points in Europe with most of them converging in Navarra, Spain, the focus of this month’s Wine Pairing Weekend which includes posts published this Saturday April 14 and a twitter chat that morning at 8am PST.
Please join us as we explore this region of Spain; food ideas here. Many of us received a variety of samples from Wines of Navarra for which we are grateful. To prepare us further, Sue and I opened a sample of a 2008 Ochoa Reserva from a single vineyard which we paired with osso bucco. Read on to learn more!
Thank you NYC Wine Lovers for a great Sunday afternoon. Over 40 #NavarraWineLovers at one of NYC’s best wine bars, Pierre Loti Chelsea tasted a range of wine styles from Navarra discovering their style of wine.
We look forward to seeing you on May 20th to taste the new vintage releases and Rosados!
Castillo de Monjardin, Chardonnay Unoaked, El Cerezo 2016
A land of enchantment, unspoiled and pure, where the people, wine and cuisine are authentic and genuine. Spain is in the midst of a wine revolution. Navarra has taken this notion of ‘wine revolution’ with a fervor.
The natural resources run very deep in the Navarran ‘tierra’ with endless possibilities to produce wines that meet the needs of everyday consumption at everyday prices, yet satisfy those who are in search of the limited and rare.
This is my inaugural new year entry (blog) to expose, highlight, feature and reveal the true nature of some of Spain’s most exciting wines. I have had a love affair with Navarra beginning shortly after finishing my university studies. My love goes deep not only for the wonderful people of Navarra, the wines, the food but for the culture, the history, the ethos, the values, the traditions and the basic humanity.
My first venture into Navarra was to go directly to Pamplona for the July fiesta of San Fermin and the Running of the Bulls. It was on this very first visit that changed my world. I had found a magic that honestly was electrifying, broadened my horizons exponentially and gave me a spark that led me into a life-long study of the vine, one as a passionate consumer and the other as a dedicated professional to the enhancement and education of wine.
What was that spark? My very first glass of ‘Clarete’ as it was known colloquially, now universally called ‘Rosado’. It was the ‘Garnacha’ grape that bright out the magic in the glass: flavorful, easy, flowed deliciously down the palate and was so pleasing and gratifying in the hot July Spanish sun.
Robin Kelley O’Connor
A leading wine educator, international wine judge, wine writer, and sommelier, Robin Kelley O’Connor is a leading wine expert. His thirty years of experience, authority and passion enable captivating seminars, dinner events, and wine education and allows him to offer an unparalleled suite of services to corporations and individuals from around the world.
Robin serves as a guest wine instructor and examiner for the Intensive Sommelier Training program at the International Culinary Center. ICC is one of the leading culinary educational institutions in the U.S., with campuses in New York and Napa Valley. It is a world-class institution dedicated to the culinary arts and vinous education.
Fantastic show of wine trade and media at the Chicago Grand Tasting of Spain’s best kept secret, Wines of Navarra. Guests attended a seminar lead Brian Duncan who focused on the food pairing aspect of the range of wines. The 13 producers shared their wines with local wine trade, media and consumers on May 8th at Bernie’s Lunch & Supper. The tasting continued with an Escape to Navarra for Chicago wine lovers who had the opportunity to taste their way through Navarra and meet the people behind the wines.
I had the opportunity to taste several bottles from the Navarra Denominación de Origen (DO) of Spain, which is located right below France. The terroir is a series of valleys and mountains in Northern Spain. Navarra is known for its climatic diversity and microclimates. Once known for Garnacha-based Rosado, but with French varieties being introduced in 1980, the region now has a variety of wines including Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Here are my favorites that I tried and I have to note that the last two are under $10, which make them a great bargain:
2015 Principe de Viana Edicion Rosé – this was an easy drinking rosé with notes of cherry, strawberry, nectarine and citrus.
2015 Ochoa Calendas Bianco – a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 43% Viura, and 7% Moscatel de Grano Menudo. Notes of stone fruit, citrus, peaches, pears, flowers and minerality burst from the glass.
2014 Vega del Castillo Garnacha Cepas Viejas 2014 – Lots of black cherries, raspberries, violets, spice.
Navarra, in northern Spain, is one of the country’s 17 first-level administrative regions (Comunidades autónomas) and a reasonably prolific – if lesser-known – wine region. Traditionally associated with the production of crisp, fruit-driven rosé, Navarra is beginning to attract attention for its high-quality red wines made mainly from the Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot grape varieties after years of being overshadowed by its southern neighbor, Rioja.
The first records of winemaking in the region date back to ancient Roman times, but grapes were almost certainly thriving here long before that. Vines of the prehistoric Vitis sylvestris species – predecessor of the cherished Vitis vinifera – have recently been discovered still growing in Navarra. After the Romans, grape-growing continued under the Moors and was then greatly expanded under Christian rule. Demand for wine was strengthened by Catholics making the pilgrimage along the Camino de Santiago to the shrine (now a cathedral) in Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, where tradition has it that the remains of the Apostle St. James are buried.
The 14th Century was a boom time for Navarra and the number of vineyards multiplied to the extent that restrictions had to be imposed to ensure enough land was dedicated to cereals to feed the local population. Demand received an additional boost in the late 19th Century when France was hit by phylloxera. This rise in sales was short-lived, however, as Navarra subsequently fell prey to the blight, which left few vineyards intact there. Vignerons replanted using phylloxera-resistant rootstocks and subsequently were able to reorganize production zones.
Navarra has just a single DO title for its wines, the regional Navarra DO, which was created in 1933 and covers the entire southern half of the region (almost everything south of the administrative capital, Pamplona). Its workings are administered by its Consejo Regulador(wine authority), based in the small town of Olite.
A friend recently asked my advice in planning a Friendsgiving dinner – she lives far from her hometown and has decided to invite other friends to share the day with her. She’s quite accomplished in the kitchen and has decided to prepare all the courses herself, with the exception of dessert. Good for her!
Years ago, I used to host Thanksgiving at my home, inviting a rag-tag group of friends, family members, neighbors, and friends-of-friends unable to go home for the holiday. The mix changed each year, depending on who was where, and it led to some interesting interactions. But that’s a whole other post . . . .
Naturally I was flattered when she sought my help and, to be honest, I looked forward to the thought exercise. My husband and I are celebrating the holiday quietly this year and I’m sort of missing the pre-Thanksgiving festivities. Best of all, I can indulge in some creative culinary thinking without having to wash a single pot or pan.
The Wines
I recently received a selection of sample bottles from the Navarra Denominación de Origen (DO) of Spain, and I thought they would lend themselves perfectly to this Friendsgiving dinner. Best known for its fresh and fruity Rosado wines, Navarra is also a center of fine-wine production, making use of both indigenous and international varieties. Tempranillo, Graciano, and Muscat mingle with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in an intriguing array of wines that pair easily with holiday feasts. I took each of the six wines I received and matched it with a particular course or dish.
Hors d’Oeuvres and Light Bites
Understanding that my friend would be busy in the kitchen as her guests arrived, I suggested she set up a sideboard with easy appetizers. Charcuterie, a cheese or two, olives, and almonds are all you need there. People can chat with each other as they nibble, and enjoy a nice glass of wine.
October 20th, 2017 marks the end of this year’s harvest in Navarra and with “excellent” results. 2017 vintage is considered historical because it was a very challenging year due to the freezing temperatures in late spring and lack of rain in the summer, which resulted in 60 million kilos of grapes (90% red, 10% white), only a 15% reduction based on the past 5 years. The grapes that make their “vendimia tardia” or Late Harvest wines such as the Moscatel Petit Grain were not included in these statistics given they are left on the vine until they reach appropriate ripening.
Despite the challenges from Mother Nature, the results turned out to be much more favorable than initially expected. This is considered one of the most difficult years in Navarra’s history and many feared the freeze and drought would be disastrous, but fortunately, there were just a few isolated cases of freeze and it was only the summer drought that influenced the lower yields.
Yields by sub-zones break down as follows:
44% Ribera Alta
30% Ribera Baja
13% Baja Montaña
7% Tierra Estella
6% Valdizarbe
Another point to make about this year’s harvest is that it started on August 16th, two weeks earlier than expected, and lasted two months which is typical for the region. Fortunately, the good weather in the final phase of harvest allowed for slower ripening, producing excellent quality grapes. The other good news is that thanks to harvest starting two weeks ahead of schedule, consumers will be able to enjoy the white and rose wines earlier than anticipated.
An Introduction to Wine is the latest effort by the Designation of Origin Navarra to bring the world of wine to all those who are interested in this exciting universe, especially young people. Throughout the book, we touch upon various topics of interest: understanding the product, wine tasting and technique, the proper consumption of wine, and finally, the past and present of the Designation of Origin Navarra. We hope that this manual will satisfy the curiosity of all those who love wine.
An Introduction To Wine is the latest effort by the Designation of Origin (D.O.) Navarra to bring knowledge about this marvelous beverage to all those who are interested in the exciting world of wine, especially young people.
In a simple, entertaining manner, the authors explain the principal themes related to the knowledge and enjoyment of wine. Using everyday language, and at a level all will be able to appreciate, their explanations manage to unravel the most complex ideas with finesse and accuracy.
This close look is enhanced by the magnificent illustrations contributed by Kukuxumusu, who, with humor, sensitivity and affection, has managed to translate his charming universe to the passionate world of wine.
Through these pages we approach distinct questions of interest, beginning with some specific information about wine, exploring subjects such as the importance of the vineyard, its cultivation through the various phases, the different varieties of grapes, the origin and composition of wine, and the principal winemaking styles. Then the emphasis switches to the process of tasting wine: its objectives, appropriate conditions for tasting wine, the sequence of a tasting, techniques and advice for wine tasting in your own home. The following chapter sets out everything related to the proper consumption of wine, covering the right conditions for storing and serving, pairing wine with food, and the beneficial effects of wine on the human body. Finally, we reveal the past and present of the D.O. Navarra, with its zones of production, grape varieties, types of wines produced and a list of the wineries themselves.
We hope this manual serves to satisfy the curiosity of all wine lovers and sustains -even increases- continued enjoyment of a cultural tradition that has distinguished our civilization for many centuries.
Salud! Here’s to your health – with a glass of wine from D.O. Navarra.